Ross Island, Andaman

“The realisation that I needed to find out what ‘home’ meant came when I was sitting alone in a shikara on Dal Lake in Srinagar during the Diwali of 2020. I thought why do I need to stay put in one place? Why not live and explore different cities until I find a place that feels like home?” Sodhi tells mid-day from Srinagar, where she’s currently put up. She titled the experiment, Twelve Steps to Home, and decided she would not just experience but document too. Sodhi has decided to release a single or music video with footage from the places she has visited, once her journey winds up.

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Her first stop was Hyderabad and since then, she has moved from the Andamans to Ooty, Manali, Imphal, Puri, Chandigarh, Delhi and has stayed at various places in Kerala and Kashmir.

“Manali, Manipur and the Andaman Islands were always on my bucket list. Although I had already visited Srinagar, Hyderabad, Ooty and parts of Kerala earlier, I wanted to spend more time there. Chandigarh, Delhi and Puri were not on my initial list. I spent a few days in Coimbatore, Kolkata and Hampi, as well,” Sodhi adds. “I have made some amazing friends. A group of locals in the Andamans took me to some incredible places. In Hyderabad, I reconnected with old friends and made new ones. I was also invited by a resort in Kerala to stay in a tree house bang in the middle of a forest.” 

Aharball Waterfalls, Kashmir

However, it’s not all rosy. In Kerala, she had to negotiate a filthy hostel. In the Andamans, she didn’t have access to clean drinking water or Wi-Fi. And in Srinagar, she was stalked by a man who followed her to the homestay where she was put up. “I eventually had to report him to the police,” says Sodhi, who insists though that India isn’t  dangerous. “I have never felt like my life was in danger, but yes, eve-teasing is a reality.”

Sodhi tells us about a foot-in-mouth moment in Puri, Orissa. “I had no idea that elderly women usually wear sarees without a blouse in the warmer months. Presuming that they were underprivileged, I tried to donate something to one of them, and she was offended. I looked around and realised that dressing this way was the norm. Embarrassment!”

Sodhi says she tries to keep her budget in check by finding accommodation on Airbnb where most hosts are happy to extend monthly discounts. Her average monthly rent ranges from Rs 7,000 to Rs 15,000, with all meals included or kitchen access. She takes a flight to cover a long distance, and an AC bus if the drive is under 10 hours. “Once I get to a place, I use public transportation as much as possible to stay within budget. Last year, I was lucky since many locals showed me around, too. It’s nice to see a destination through the eyes of someone who knows a place inside-out.” 

Over a year into the travels, she is no longer pushing herself to move to a new place every month. It can get both, physically exhausting and mentally draining. This year, she plans to divide her time between Hyderabad, Srinagar and Delhi.

What to do in...

Hyderabad
» Experience the magic of qawwali on a Thursday at night at Yousufain Dargah.
» Walk through the Sunday book market at Abids.
» Enjoy a cup of chai against the backdrop of the Charminar.  
» Khajaguda Hills is the perfect uncrowded place to experience the city at night or at sunrise.

Andaman
» Have a Bambi moment at Ross Island if you love deer.
» Go to Khurmadera beach; it’s  one of the most tranquil in India.
» Try your hand at snorkelling if you’ve never done it.

Srinagar
» Witness the magical Dal Lake come to life early in the morning with the floating market. Take a trip to Pampore to see the saffron growers at work.
» Arq-E-Gulab is a 500-year-old shop in downtown Srinagar where you feel like you are time travelling. If you’re a history buff, explore the ancient ruins in Martand and Awantipora.
» The prettiest views are at Pari Mahal and Hari Parbat.
» Find someone who can take you for a day trip to the Golf Course—it’s vast and gorgeous.

Kerala
» Stay in the tree house at Vythiri Resort when you’re in Wayanad and feel like an adventure.
» Explore the Alleppey backwaters with the locals by taking a public ferry.

Ooty / Coonoor 
» Find someone who can sneak you into Korakundah Tea Estate. 
» A cup of tea at Fernhill Palace is a rare royal experience.

Want to hear from you

We are looking to visit and write about interesting places of stay and travel, near and far. If you wish to host us for a fair, engaging experience review, write to us at smdmail@mid-day.com

What to eat and where

Srinagar: Nnadru pakoras, haak, warimuth, masala lavasa, kehwa and nun chaai. The makki ki roti made in ghee on the way to Doodhpathri is delicious.
Imphal: Pakoras made with chives.
Delhi: Potato-cheese momos at Majnu Ka Tila, gooey jalebi at Dariba in Chandini Chowk.
Coonoor: The cheese at Acres Wild. They also run cheesemaking courses for those who stay there.