The author stresses on the three words — han, heung and jeong — in both the introduction and conclusion. And quite a few times through the course of her travelogue. She explains han as a word that can be interpreted subjectively, but its essence lies in acknowledging profound personal and collective suffering. The Koreans believe that only through accepting pain can one aspire for betterment. She urges her readers to reflect on the country’s history of occupation, war and separation, and how it has still realised economic success. Heung refers to the simple joys of life — reading a book, enjoying a cup of tea, soaking in nature, playing with your dog, and so on. Jeong is “the art of giving without expecting anything in return”. The word celebrates community spirit and encourages people to enjoy their relationship with friends, family and fellow countrymen.

Barbara J Zitwer. Pic courtesy/Twitter

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Soup for the soul

Food is an essential route to knowing any place. Zitwer generously ends every chapter with a delicious recipe that was shared with her by her Korean friends. From beef dumplings and ginseng chicken soup to egg soy sauce rice and soybean paste stew, the book has it all. If you are on a date in Korea, don’t be surprised if they ask you: “Bap meogeosseoyo?” It inquires if a person has eaten. As the author notes, chicken soup is the elixir of life. Koreans believe in sharing their meals with members of the community, even if it’s with a pet. They like to pause and have their food slow. They also see food as an adventure, and keep trying out new things.  

Age is just a number

Well, that adage might not be as true in South Korea. Whether you are a woman or a senior citizen, you can’t avoid the question, “How old are you?” in the country. Koreans tend to ask one’s age to show them respect and address them accordingly. It is also impolite to wave one’s hands in a meeting or while talking. Zitwer learnt it the hard way when her associate and interpreter, Sue, told her that a local publisher thought the agent was rude and would never advance their business with her. Gifting among Koreans follows the ideal of reciprocity. It should be a meaningful gift that can be afforded in return by the receiver.

Changuimun Gate is one of the eight gates of the fortress wall that surrounded the city during the Joseon dynasty. Pics Courtesy/Wikimedia Commons

Put it in the closet

The author references that the Western pursuit of happiness is more focused on possessions, whereas the Koreans seek a clutter-free life. Although they have a refined taste for luxury goods, they prefer their home interiors to have vacant floors. They store their necessities in the closet to enjoy a serene atmosphere. The author’s preference in having an almost empty room in New York City was validated when she visited a hanok village, and learnt about traditional Korean homes. They also promote sitting on the floor for stronger core muscles and look forward to bringing the outside indoors by having more natural plants and flowers around. If you are visiting South Korea, remember that tea-drinking in the country is always a ceremony. 

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Lotus-seekers

Pink, blue and yellow — the attractive colours on the book cover depict lotus flowers and leaves. The flower is an important symbol in the Korean culture for it births beauty despite its muddy surroundings. In Buddhism, lotus symbolises virtue.

A zest for life

Zitwer’s reccos if you’re looking for vitality in life:

>> The Diary of Anne Frank: It is one of the most remarkable books that illuminate an appreciation for life under unthinkably horrific circumstances. Anne Frank found joy, love and life while hiding from the Nazis during World War II, and she was a teenager full of zest and spunk. I feel reading her book is a testament to life and happiness, even though it might seem to be the opposite. Frank knew how to appreciate the beauty of her life no matter what.

>> Don Quixote by Miguel de Cervantes: It’s one of the greatest novels ever written. A delusional old man goes on a quest with a lowly peasant. This comic classic raises the characters and journey to the heights of the best of humankind. Reading this book can take you on a journey of glee, and of course, of sorrow. But 
you must have one to have the other. 

>> Our Man In Havana by Graham Greene: I think it is simple, hilarious and fabulous.