A weaver creates intricate extra weft design

In textile language, there’s a warp and a weft, two basic components in weaving to turn the yarn or a thread into the material. The extra weft is inserted with hands horizontally and vertically, in addition to the regular shuttle weft. This is also done to create a motif or an additional design on the product. There are a few motifs that are quintessential to the region, a damru-shaped motif (dungli) and choumukh motif, which is inspired by the four-faced diya used during puja.

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“The event aims to bring to light the histories and stories behind the Vankars. Academic experts, activists and practitioners will be at par discussing the realities of weaving, the research that goes into it and the struggles of it all,” shares Amrita Somaiya, trustee, Somaiya Trusts.

Weaver Bharatbhai Jepar from Mota Varnora village in Kachchh works on a frame loom used for weaving. Pic courtesy/Hashim Badani

The panel and talks that will be conducted at The Somaiya School Auditorium, will include panel discussions and talks — Significance of oral histories by Nandini Oza; Role of women in weaving by rishnaben Vankar; Kachchhi folk bhajan; history and evolution of Vankar textiles; panel discussion: design education by Amrita Somaiya, Savith Suri and Nishit Sangomla; and a performance by a Kachchhi music band. 

“Music is a significant part of the Vankar community; it has been a tradition to sing while weaving. So, the bhajans and Kachchhi music will be sung by weavers including Shivji Kharet, Karsan Siju, Naran Siju, Khimji, Samat Siju, Manji Khokhar and Manodhiya Hemraj,” informs Yashika M, programme co-ordinator, Somaiya Kala Vidya, Kachchh.

Yashika M and Dr Yamini Shah

The exhibition will showcase sarees, shawls, scarves and bed sheets that have been designed and made by the students of Somaiya Kala Vidya. “Additionally, there will be a demonstration where weavers will educate participants about the process of weaving, from the first stroke of the thread on the raw cloth till the final product. It will be a great opportunity for Mumbaikars to interact with weavers,” says Dr Yamini Shah, assistant director, Centre for Kachchh Studies.

Amrita Somaiya

“Few people know about the specificities of the Vankar community; this exhibit hopes to create awareness about their histories and craft. People and students stand to learn immensely about the intricacies behind the toil of weaving, and about these skills that have been preserved for generations,” elaborates Somaiya. She added that listening to the expert talk and panel discussions on Vankars will expand the understanding of the exhaustive research and documentation about textiles that are woven by them.

On: November 2 and 3; 10 am to 6 pm 
At: The Somaiya School Auditorium, Vidyanagar, Vidyavihar East, Ghatkopar East. 
Log on to: @somaiyavidyaviharuniversity