The re-imagined thatte idlis on display. Pics/Devanshi Doshi

Nearly 15 minutes later, our idwich: makhani sandwich (Rs 545) arrives in a thatte (Kannada for dish). This plate has ‘thatte idli’ etched along the borders in several South Indian languages. In the centre is the chef-d’oeuvre, the idli sandwich. When we try to hold it up, the filling spills over from the sides and falls onto the plate. Our attendant tells us that these idlis are made to be messy, and consumed using hands. The first bite is a flavour-burst. We taste daal makhani, feta cheese, avocado, butter and idli, all at once. The thatte idli is crispy on the outside, and has a similar texture to bread. But it is as pillow-ey as one would expect an idli to taste like on the inside; and thus, it wins our vote.   

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As we are already sated (the dish is filling), we decide to take away the other varieties. However, when we reach the ground floor, which is reserved for takeaways, the counter staff informs us that these idlis cannot be “taken away”. They reason that since it’s early days, they don’t have the correct boxes to pack them and that take-away will commence as soon as these issues are sorted. They justified this policy by saying that idlis are meant to be eaten fresh at the café, and that it won’t survive the commute. If you’re not ready for takeaway, why advertise in the first place? After refusing our repeated pleas for a takeaway, we had to reluctantly order another serving at the café.  

We called for the idzaa (R425), which is made in Neapolitan style, with a thick layer of tomato and pesto paste, and is garnished with cheese and rucola leaves. This is a sweet-tangy dish, and is easier to navigate than the idwich. We learnt that the sourdough used in all idlis is gluten-free, and noticed that the menu mentions allergens, wherever used.
While we love the bold, quirky inclusions, the fuss over takeaways is a no-no, especially in a city where not everyone has the leisure to have a relaxed meal. 

Mary Lodge by Subko
AT Chapel Road, Bandra West. (NOTE: Idli menu available only at this Subko outlet) 
Time 7.30 am to 10 pm
Call 8591745691

Also check out

Idli platter
At Anna Idli, Veer Nariman Road, Fort.
Call 72628-84400

Masala idli
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Call 9372904997

Khow suey idli
At South Stories, Louis Wadi, Thane West.
Call 8828821597

Banana leaf idli and burger idli
At Avantika Chennai Café, opposite D-Mart, Kandivali West. 
Call 99204065565