Root food

A gastronomic tour through history spills engaging accounts from the past. That’s why this seasonal cook decided to make Goalando steamer chicken curry on her last day off. Thanks to Lost and Rare Recipes, the dish — more so its origin story, helped me briefly connect with my cultural roots in East Bengal. With the secret addition of mashed dried prawns to the gravy, boatmen would feed travellers a hearty chicken curry when they reached Goalando from Kolkata back in the day. From there, it used to be an overnight boat journey to Dhaka. Sometimes, it’s all in the name.

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