The versatility of potatoes is such that it’s ubiquitous across cultures and cuisines, appearing as everything from patate al forno in Italy to alur chop, a popular Bengali snack. But it doesn’t make an appearance in desserts as much, because of its savoury flavour profile. That’s where its spud cousin, the sweet potato, comes in. Home chef Shabana Salauddin tells us, for example, how the ingredient is a must-have in Konkani Muslim homes during Ramazan, when it’s mashed up and turned into a kheer that’s served as an Iftaar delicacy.

That’s not to say that it can’t be served as a savoury snack (albeit with an ingrained sweet touch). They can be baked and served as a side dish for a roast chicken meal, or cubed and dumped into stews. Salauddin, who runs a venture called Ammeez Kitchen, also tells us that in Indian villages, sweet potatoes are thrown into the warm ashes of a chulha, which gives it a smoky flavour that’s similar to the whiff coming from Mumbai’s street carts. Here, she shares a recipe for ratalu ki kheer, where sweet potatoes are roasted on a pan, making it more convenient for Mumbaikars leading an urban life.

Ratalu ki kheer