Away from their countries, these maharanis would end up missing home and their native fare. Naturally, palace chefs would have to get innovative, because the food would have to be familiar to these maharanis, without being too bland for the maharajas, Medhora points out. “Maharani Sharmistha Raje Holkar, an American, appointed a palace chef from Goa, who came with influences of Portuguese cuisine. The food that evolved was a departure from your regular royal fare. For instance, there were the Goan nevris, usually with coconut and jaggery; but in Malwa, the chef stuffed it with mushrooms, keema, or corn and cheese,” explains Medhora, whose menu features carrots and nevries.

Anuradha Joshi Medhora

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Her limited-edition feast reflects the gastronomic and cultural syncretism that evolved as these maharanis introduced Malwa to Christmas soirées and dinner parties. “Maharani Sharmistha Raje Holkar, for instance, was famous for her parties and playing the piano. Before her, Christmas wasn’t celebrated in the Lalbagh Palace,” she reveals. 

Also part of the White Maharani’s Christmas feast are liver and potato cutlets, Shikarbagh egg curry served at the hunting lodges, tomato pulav, devil chutney and coconut chicken stew, among other delicacies. “These women introduced new techniques and ingredients, such as beer that would be used to clean the catch during hunting when water wasn’t available, or tomatoes, bread and biscuits. A lot of coconut was used to tone down spice levels, and milder spices were used,” Medhora informs.

To end on a sweet note, there’s Viceroy’s biscuit pudding, a dessert, she adds, the Holkars served the viceroy when he visited them in France. 

Till: December 26, 12 pm to 11 pm
Call: 9833549949 (pre-bookings only)