Carbonara bacon pizza

In the years that followed, the restaurant and the tree bloomed together. While one stood resplendent with low-hanging mangoes, the other was teeming with stars. From Sachin Tendulkar to Talat Aziz, all sang its praise, thanks to the flavourful Italian fare on offer.

Poll

Who will win the Punjab Elections?

BJP 32.86%

AAP 41.43%

INC 25.71%

Submit

View All In Poll

Meanwhile, Chaudhri, propelled by the success of his maiden business, embarked on a fervent mission, opening several restaurants, cafés and clubs all across the city.

Elephant asparagus souffle

Then, in 2011, the celeb den and nightlife junction, was forced to shut down because it had become economically non-viable. And within the next three years, the tree, like the defused buzz around the space, dried up.

Mangii Ferra in 2004

"It had to be cut down. But isn't it a spooky story?" Chaudhri inquires, reclining back into one of the many pressed-wicker chairs that are part of the decor of the transformed space, which will open its doors to patrons once again today.

The canopies that once lined the façade of the restaurant in its old avatar have been retained, adding a touch of green to its pale pink exterior. Inside, the playful colours from the erstwhile Mangii have been swapped for warmer, pastel tones, along with pearly clean walls that have been interspersed with rough-textured pillars, glowing in the light of the classic chandeliers hanging from the ceiling.

Gin and basil smash

One on end, there are cosy seating corners that jut out of the wall from below the window panes, and at the far end of the space there's a wooden panelled wall facing a large table meant to be a private dining area. A decade ago, that part of the restaurant used to be a split level. The ambience is still quaint, but seems to have matured, as has its creator — from a sceptical novice in the F&B industry to a seasoned businessman with a chain of eateries to his name.

"This used to be a great looking restaurant with good food, but we are coming back after eight years; and tastes are bound to have changed," Chaudhri explains, speaking about the restaurant's metamorphosis from a youthful eatery into a modern diner. The menu, too, attempts to embrace current eating preferences, so it offers a few Mediterranean and pan-European options.

Buratta cheese caponata. Pics/Satej Shinde

But by and large, it continues to serve delectable Italian fare. Like, a burrata cheese caponata (R525), which is a traditional Sicilian delicacy made with veggies and eggplant. But here, it makes use of an excellent burrata, with a stretchy exterior and a warm and gooey core. It is paired with fresh rocket leaves and pine nuts, all tossed in extra virgin olive oil and a balsamic dressing. It's like autumn on a plate.

The wood-fired oven pizzas — that they were popular for — continue to feature on the menu. Fresh out of the oven, the carbonara pizza (R725) is a treat. A crisp base is lathered in a creamy white sauce and donned with streaky bacon, rocket leaves, stracciatella and parmesan.

Though a little dry, it's easy on the palate and perfect for tomato haters. The truffle mascarpone fettucine (R675) is a sinful platter of perfectly cooked pasta dredged in a delicate and velvety sauce. It's brimming with a rich earthiness from the fresh truffles and chives. The seafood paella (R625) is a tangy dish that boasts of juicy mussels and squid. While the elephant asparagus souffle (R525) are these herby cutlet-shaped tid-bits served on a bed of cheesy fondue. It settles at the back of your mouth, exploding into a pool of flavours.

And while the goji berry and asparagus ravioli (R525) fails to impress with its stodgy dumplings, the four pepper tiger prawns (R895) makes up for it. With the softest crustaceans, enhanced by the sharpness of the peppers, the dish washes down well with a swig from the refreshing and citrus-ey gin and basil smash (R495).

Prashant Chaudhri

So, in spite of the new look and the absence of the mango tree, the essence of the old Mangii remains — ingrained in its food, attentive service and Chaudhri's unabashed presence. The logo, which was once the entire tree, has been altered to just a leaf. It doesn't symbolise a rebirth, but instead, befittingly denotes a lingering presence in another form and shape.

At Mangii Ferra, Om Satyadeep, Cross Road, JVPD Scheme, Juhu.
Time 12 pm to 1 am
Call 9892142977

Catch up on all the latest Mumbai news, crime news, current affairs, and also a complete guide on Mumbai from food to things to do and events across the city here. Also download the new mid-day Android and iOS apps to get latest updates