A climb up a narrow flight of steps leads to a small dining area that's cozy enough, and has the colour scheme of a mango ice-cream stick with a vanilla centre. It's not a half-bad first impression. But things head downhill as soon as the menu arrives. Firstly, incorrect spellings mean basic homework hasn't been done (the section titled "Bengoli dishes" pinches the most, but that might only be due to our hurt Bengali pride). And secondly, many of the items aren't available, including any fish dish, which again rankles the Bengali in us.

The interiors

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What's worse, the less said about the food the better. Still, here's a brief one-line description of each order we place. The hummus (Rs 210) that's served with a papad-like pita bread is too tangy. The crispy mushroom (Rs 205) from the Chinese section has soggy batter. And though the pieces of meat in the mutton rogan josh (Rs 265) are suitably tender, finding them in the soupy gravy is somewhat like looking for a needle in a haystack.

So, as things stand, Ohanna's really needs to pull up its socks if it wants to withstand the test of time. The restaurant business can be a merciless one. Perform, or perish like a lamb being taken for slaughter. And if this particular joint carries on as is, will it ever find its fortunes soaring? We, for one, wouldn't bet on that.

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